Ellington

It seems as if the revival of any old neighborhood begins when restaurants move in. Look at St. Elmo, the North Shore and Main Street — all excellent examples of urban renewal and all spurred by the opening of eateries. So I was not surprised when, after hearing of the proposed renaissance of Rossville, I also was told of a new restaurant, Chef Q’s, that is drawing folks back to the area by serving food that Rossville hasn’t seen in quite some time.

THE MENU

Chef Q’s menu is diverse, with a variety of cuisines, from Cajun to dishes smacking of Southern flavor. There’s a sign out front advertising the day’s specials, which on the day of our visit were a choice of meatloaf sandwich with barbecue sauce and coleslaw or a grilled chicken breast/pasta dish with a creamy sun-dried tomato sauce. Decisions, decisions. Then I saw Reubens on the menu, and my decision was made. The shrimp po’ boy caught the eye of my lunch buddy. We shared an order of onion rings.

The Reuben was excellent — sort of messy, but just like I like it, for the most part. I had to add some mustard. And though the marbled rye was good, I still wonder why restaurants don’t serve the real thing with rye imbedded in the bread. It’s a rare eatery that serves Jewish rye anymore. Marbled rye is pretty to look at but doesn’t offer the same bold flavor as its predecessor.

The shrimp po’ boy was packed with tastes, from the coleslaw to the tartar sauce to the crispy fried shrimp. Each blended and crescendoed into an explosion of flavor. The baguette was cleverly branded with Chef Q’s logo. Quite impressive.

Best bets: Chicken Monterey with two sides ($12), Reuben ($8), shrimp po’ boy ($6), liver and onions with two sides ($10), Southwest chicken salad ($8).

THE SERVICE

Service was quick and accurate, though very laid-back. It seems there was just one set of salt and pepper shakers, so they were brought to the table then taken away once used. Drinks are in a refrigerated unit near the kitchen. It’s the kind of restaurant that makes you feel at home. There was a comfortable banter between the dining area and kitchen.

THE SPACE

Don’t expect gourmet-level surroundings. There are a limited number of booths along a wall beneath windows marked with what appeared to be bullet holes. It’s an interesting architectural choice that seems to be in keeping with the building’s historic past. From what I’ve been told, it was once a place for gambling and other illicit activities. Now it’s just a nice place to get a very good meal.

THE VERDICT

Rossville is prime for rehabilitation, and Chef Q’s is helping to make it a new dining destination. More good restaurants will be needed to see it through, but Chef Q’s is a flavorful beginning.

IF YOU GO

• Where: Chef Q’s, 106 W. Gordon Ave., Rossville.

• Phone: 706-858-3626.

• Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

• Price range: $4-$13.

• Alcohol: No.