Staff Photo by Allison Kwesell
Fried catfish is on the menu every day at Cafe Lemont on Dodds Avenue. Try it with cornbread salad, whole fried okra and coleslaw, with a mandarin orange cupcake for dessert.

Cafe Lemont opened five years ago, and I loved my first meal I had there. So much so, I'm embarrassed to say it's been five years since I've had my second meal at Lemont's. Shame on me. And shame on you if you miss out. It's a great place in a part of town that's in sore need of some good eateries. Highland Park residents are lucky to have it in the neighborhood.

THE MENU

Offerings at Cafe Lemont are homespun Southern through and through, starting with the catfish, served daily.

The order (for three): Chef's special (fish basket); fried catfish plate; country-style steak plate.

To keep things streamlined, customers get a choice of a few entrees each day, rather than the whole menu. You might want to call ahead for the day's specials, which include such favorites as meatloaf, oven-fried pork chops, roasted pork and gravy, chicken casserole and beef tips with rice. Sides include pinto beans, sweet potatoes, fried okra, cheese grits, baked beans. Again, everything changes daily.

All entree plates with two sides are $9.99. The fish basket (one filet, fries, slaw and cupcake) is $6.99, and the fish sandwich with a cupcake is $5.

I was impressed with the size of each plate. Two large country-fried steaks topped with brown gravy and sautéed onions filled my plate. It's been years, no decades, since I've had country-style steak, and I'd be hard-pressed to find any that I liked better than Lemont's. Excellent.

I was so happy to have visited on a day when collard greens were served. It's hard to get good collard greens -- fresh and not full of fat. They're done right at Lemont's.

I sampled the fried green tomatoes and fried okra. They're also among the best in town.

I loved the fact that the okra is fried whole, not sliced. Like the catfish, the tomatoes and okra are very lightly battered in a cornmeal mixture so that the flavor comes through. It's the best breading I've had on any fish or vegetable.

Lemont Johnson is a master in the kitchen. His wife, Renita, is the artist with desserts. The bakery case in the front is filled with the products of her creativity. Every day, she features a different number of cupcakes. Our picks were the key lime, double chocolate mousse and German chocolate. I just wish the caramel had been available that day or the lemon legend with lemon curd inside. My chocolate cupcake was so good, I wanted to try more flavors.

Lady J's cupcakes are sold individually or by the dozen.

THE SERVICE

Lemont Johnson came to our table to take our order. I saw others placing theirs at the counter. So I don't know which is proper. But that's the thing. This is a friendly, casual restaurant where customers are accommodated to the utmost. Orders are picked up at the counter, and it's your job to bus your table. At least that's what I did. So between the staff and myself, we did a great job. No room for improvement.

THE SPACE

Cafe Lemont has doubled in size from the original 14-seat eatery. Just recently, a room in the back was opened as a new dining area. It's a great addition, with a door to the outside leading to a nice-size parking lot. The new space is a good look, with soft paint colors and attractive furnishings.

THE VERDICT

The Johnsons have an entrepreneurial spirit that I admire and food that I love. It won't be another five years before I'm back. In fact, I think this is a new favorite place for my parents and me. I was telling my dad, if I had a child at McCallie School or lived in Highland Park, Lemont's would be my dining room.

IF YOU GO

Where: Cafe Lemont, 801 Dodds Ave. (corner of Kirby Avenue).

Phone: 629-1388.

Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Friday.

Price range: $5 (catfish sandwich)-$9.99 (entree and two sides).

Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

Alcohol: No.