Fyi.timesfreepress.com Dining
Thursday, September 17, 2009

Virginia's Southside Cafe offers light, sturdy choices

By: Anne Braly
     (Contact)

Leave it to Virginia Cofer, familiar to customers of Petunia’s Silver Jalapeno, to come up with another incredible menu of taste sensations. With the opening of Virginia’s Southside Cafe, she’s done it again, with the help of business partners Denise Ware and Laura Powell. If two restaurants aren’t enough to keep her busy, Cofer also has a catering business, Gourmet by Design.

THE MENU

The offerings at Virginia’s go far beyond what the former Gallery Cafe once offered. Where diners once enjoyed mostly “girl” food, Cofer has created a menu that pleases all. Men might hunker down to a club sandwich, ginger-garlic-sesame-teriyaki flat-iron steak given a kick with a wasabi aioli, or a large bowl of baked pasta of the day. Lighter appetites may choose from a different quiche served daily; a blackened salmon cake made with fresh dill, capers and onion served on an onion-dill roll; or signature tomato-basil soup.

The order (for three): Pasta of the day; Cobb salad; shrimp tacos.

Every meal starts with a plate of incredible bread and Cofer’s mouthwatering pimento cheese. I could have dined on this alone. But the Cobb salad called my name.

This was one of the prettiest, tastiest salads I’ve had in quite some time. A bed of lettuce came packed with rows of thick slices of avocado, shredded cheese, smoked turkey, blue cheese crumbles, diced tomatoes and onions and jalapeno bacon — very unusual but not too spicy. I had blue cheese dressing and raspberry balsamic vinaigrette on the side. Both were excellent and a nice marriage with everything else happening in this dynamic salad.

A taste of the fish tacos and pasta of the day left me in a quandary as to what was the best dish on the table. It was a toss-up. I’ve enjoyed many of Cofer’s dishes for a long time and can tell you without hesitation that anything you order is going to be above average. Way above. The chicken salad, too, is outstanding.

Dessert is an experience here, too. So leave room. Ware is an excellent pastry chef, and you haven’t had a chocolate dessert until you’ve had her pots de creme. Unbelievable, as was her lemon bread pudding.

THE SERVICE

Though it took a few minutes for our entrees to arrive, bread and that incredible pimento cheese sustained us.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

THE SPACE

Cofer and partners have livened up the old cafe. They’ve painted the walls and added new art.

The biggest change is the new entrance off Cowart Street. No longer do customers have to walk through the galleries to get into the restaurant, though I still do. I love looking at the beautiful gift items you can find in Galleries at Southside.

There’s also a room for private parties to one side of the space that’s perfect for luncheons and other functions. It’s not too early to think of booking a Christmas party, for example.

THE VERDICT

I’ve been excited about this restaurant opening since I heard about it several weeks ago. Though I didn’t know how she’d do it, Cofer has brought to the Southside a dynamic new place for lunch, adding another patch in the culinary quilt already established. Congratulations on a job well done. I look forward to the future of this charming cafe.

If you go

Where: Virginia’s Southside Cafe, 1404 Cowart St.

Phone: 756-6010.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.

Price range: $2.95 (cup of tomato-basil soup)-$13.95 (flat-iron steak).

Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

Alcohol: No.

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