I've often driven past Paddy's Bar and Grill and not given this inconspicuous place a second look. But Angie Williams, formerly of the Shark Shack on Dayton Boulevard, called not too long ago telling me the place has new owners, Paul Wyatt and Tommy Bowling. And Williams said she's in the kitchen seven days a week. That's all it took to get me in.

THE MENU

Williams told me Paddy's is known for its burgers. But I was burgered out, so took a look at other items. All the choices are typical bar food: Philly cheesesteak, a fried bologna burger, club sandwich, steak sandwich. But there were other entrees of interest. Williams told me the catfish sandwich and platter were both excellent. When I saw the grouper platter, though, my decision was made.

The order (for two): Onion rings, fried pickles, grouper platter, cheeseburger.

Onion rings are a yardstick for me when it comes to bar food. Though I've had better, these were good. You get perhaps a dozen or so. The fried pickles were something really different. You don't see them too often. Served with a tangy ranch dressing, they offer a sweet, sour, savory, crunchy beginning to your meal or as a side to a cold beer.

The grouper platter is a large plate of fried grouper fingers with a choice of two sides. I picked a baked potato and, as long as I was off my diet eating fried food, fried okra. I'll be paying for it, but the grouper was very good. Not too heavily breaded. The okra had the taste and texture of homemade, fresh not frozen. Servings were generous, so I couldn't finish the entire plate. I'd advise not going overboard on appetizers.

My husband enjoyed his cheeseburger thoroughly. My one bite proved Williams' recommendation was on target. Paddy's does have good burgers with an excellent chargrilled taste. Get some fries on the side. They're hand-cut from the same Idaho potatoes used for baking.

Friday nights are special at Paddy's. It's steak night, and rib-eyes are cut to order -- as massive or petite as you like. Our server told us most Friday nights are packed. So come early.

THE SERVICE

We arrived at 6 p.m. Though there were a dozen or so people enjoying an afternoon beer, we were the only people eating dinner at the time, so service was swift.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

THE SPACE

This is a place for sports fans from floor to ceiling. One room is the main bar area with several TVs tuned to sports channels. Look up, and you'll find a football field above you taking up the entire ceiling of this room, complete with yard lines and end zones in, naturally, orange and white checks. Off to the side is a separate dining area with a big-screen TV on one wall, tables, a pool table and dart boards. I think we're found a new place to watch the games.

THE VERDICT

This restaurant is a throwback to yesteryear, when neighborhood bars were as common as fast-food restaurants are today. When Paddy's opened around 40 years ago, North Hixson was way off the beaten track. Now the area is very active and still growing. Paddy's, though, remains a gathering place for friends. The clientele is mostly an older set. It's a good watering hole for boomers that has good food. Remember, this is a place for those 21 and older, so smoking is OK.

IF YOU GO

Where: Paddy's Bar and Grill, 5603 Hixson Pike.

Phone: 843-2658 or 843-0077.

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday.

Price range: $2-$12.95 (Friday night steak dinner market price).

Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

Alcohol: Beer only; browning bagging OK.

Smoking: Allowed.