Staff Photo by Allison Kwesell
At the Red Lantern, baked chicken is served with homemade dressing, green beans, tomatoes, Mexican corn bread and cranberry sauce.

I've just discovered some of the best "bar" food in Chattanooga. You know, the kind that you throw your diet to the wind and let go, enjoying burgers, fries, chili ... those foods that, at times, bring on some of the most ferocious cravings.

At Red Lantern, you'll get all that. But, if you're committed to a more healthful way of eating, it's entirely possible.

THE MENU

I was impressed with the variety of offerings, starting with lunch specials, some of which change weekly. The Wednesday I was there, I noticed Mandarin chicken with baby limas was offered. And you'll always find chicken livers, grilled chicken, sliced roast beef -- with or without gravy -- and other favorites served with your choice of 14 vegetables and other side dishes on the set lunch menu.

But I took one look at the full menu and never went back.

The order (for two): Tater skins; Reuben with home fries; cheeseburger with onion rings.

When the tater skins were placed in front of us, I knew we were in for a treat. It was quite obvious these weren't the tasteless prefrozen skins. They were huge baked potatoes that had been cut in half in the kitchen before the potato was removed from the skins and replaced with cheese and bacon. Four skins come to a plate. One's all I could manage.

The Reuben was very good. Needed mustard, though, which was quickly remedied. A little more sauerkraut, too. But all in all, it was a good sandwich. However, the burger was the best. The hand-formed patty had a wonderful grilled taste. Burger lovers might also opt for the Red Lantern Burger with sauteed onions and melted Swiss.

The fries were very good, but the onion rings outstanding. Very crispy and big. Whether or not they were homemade, I don't know. They certainly appeared to be, though, and were among the best I've had lately.

Red Lantern also offers big salads, fried shrimp, hand-cut steaks, fresh catch of the day -- grilled or fried, a patty melt. Even frog legs. Now that's something different.

THE SERVICE

Service was fast and orders were accurate, but once we were settled into eating, we were forgotten. I finally had to get up to get my mustard. Besides that, service was very good.

THE SPACE

Red Lantern has been a number of different restaurants, but it originally started as Red Lantern and has now returned to its roots under new owner Wayne Rominger. It's a rather dark restaurant with more than a dozen tables and four TVs on the walls, plus a giant projection television that takes up an entire wall. Whether it's a ball game or other event, you'll catch if from any seat in the house.

Giving the old building a rather classy touch are tables covered with linens beneath glass tops. Who'd a figured? Never seen that in a sports-type bar before, but I like it.

Anti-smoking advocates be forewarned. This is a restaurant/bar for adults and smoking is allowed.

THE VERDICT

I really do like this restaurant. It's a place where regular customers are known by name. A great place for downtowners to enjoy a good lunch. And a nice place to gather after hours. There's nothing fancy about it. Just good food and a fun crowd.

IF YOU GO

* Where: Red Lantern, 1301 Chestnut St.

* Phone: 757-4730.

* Hours:

* Price range: $6.50 (lunch specials); $4.75-$11.95 (sandwiches and dinner entrees); hand-cut steaks are market price.

* Alcohol: Full bar.

* Smoking: Allowed.

* Payment: Cash and major credit cards.