Staff Photo by Lesley Onstott
Buffalo shrimp, a favorite at Bart's Lakeshore, is displayed on the restaurant's patio with Chickamauga Lake and rolling hills in the background. The appetizer is $9.95 for a half pound and $18.95 for one pound, and is served over lettuce with celery, lemon wedges and ranch dressing for dipping.

When Bart's Lakeshore took the place of Aris' Lakeshore on Chickamauga Lake, my first thoughts were, "Goodbye, Buffalo shrimp. So long, Steak deBurgo." Yes, I could still get it at Aris' Harbor Light in Soddy-Daisy, but the Lakeshore restaurant held a special place in my heart.

Recently, though, we met friends to watch a Vols game at Bart's. Lo and behold! Hello, Buffalo shrimp. Good to see you, Steak deBurgo. The menu was almost identical. Little had changed.

The menu

This is a place where sports-minded folks can find some great wings, pizza, burgers and other bar-type food. If a meal of a more elegant nature is what you have in mind, the menu harmonizes beautifully.

The order (for two): Buffalo shrimp, cheeseburger, onion rings.

OK, so I didn't get the steak. We were there for the game, so the food had to fit the football spirit.

The shrimp was the dish of my dreams. It's butterflied, so it's big. And it's lightly breaded with a slightly spicy blend of ingredients, then quickly fried and served with ranch dressing and celery. Six came to the plate, though we could have ordered a full pound. We did share our burger and rings.

The burger was perfect -- hand-patted and grilled just right. The onion rings were incredible. The light breading made it possible to bite into the onion and not come away with a mouthful of batter.

The menu also features surf-and-turf, lobster tail (broiled or fried), Greek chicken, King crab legs by the pound and Bart's own footlong hot dog. The menu is full of variety.

THE SERVICE

There was a cheering crowd on the day of my visit, but there didn't appear to be enough wait staff. Our server seemed a little overburdened with too many tables. She got our order correct, though at times, it took a little longer than expected. The bartender was busy too and appeared to be working by herself.

Room for improvement: Be prepared with extra staff on game day.

THE SPACE

I don't think there's a restaurant with a prettier view in Chattanooga. During breaks in the game, we watched a seaplane take off and land over and over near the dam and fog climb Lookout Mountain.

Bart's is a large restaurant with more than 4,000 square feet of space. The dance floor stays busy on weekend nights. On any given Saturday or Sunday, sports are on the almost dozen TVs.

THE VERDICT

I'm glad to have Lakeshore back on my agenda, and glad that new owner Bart Huckaby, while adding a few of his own items to the menu, kept some of Aris' originals in place. It's making everybody happy.

IF YOU GO

Where: Bart's Lakeshore Restaurant & Lounge, 5600 Lake Resort Drive.

Phone: 870-0777.

Hours: 3 p.m.-3 a.m. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturday-Sunday.

Price range: $5.95-$32.95.

Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

Alcohol: Full bar.

Smoking: Yes.