Back when M.L. King Boulevard was Ninth Street, jazz clubs lined the avenue. The newly opened Coltrane's on 9th, named for revered saxophonist John Coltrane, pays heed to that heritage.

You'll hear jazz on weekend nights on occasion. During the lunch hour when I stopped by, oldies were playing in the background, which surprised me a little. I expected to hear jazz piped in.

Whatever the musical selections, this is a place for good food and good times.

THE MENU

Coltrane's menu is one of the coolest I've seen in town. It's a small paper booklet, just five pages long but filled with a selection of Southern fare.

The order (for two): Meatloaf with squash casserole and smoked gouda mac and cheese ($8.50); slow-roasted pot roast with turnip greens and baked potato salad ($8.50).

I've never been a huge fan of pot roast, but Coltrane's has changed my mind. The pot roast is, without a doubt, the best I've ever had. The meat was so tender I didn't need a knife. It fell into bites with the touch of my fork. The four thick slices of meat were topped with pan gravy and roasted vegetables.

While I'm sure the smoked chicken with white barbecue sauce or short ribs would be as good, I can't imagine anything better than this pot roast. The meatloaf was good, but my lunchmate and I agreed that the pot roast beat it hands down.

All the sides were good. I especially like the potato salad, which was very creamy. I thought I detected a hint of sour cream. It wasn't sweet, but it was very good. The greens were fresh and flavorful. The mac and cheese was good, though a little different with the sauce poured over top of the macaroni. I don't think you'd go wrong with any of the vegetables. If you want a big plate of four choices, you can get that for $6.45.

I was impressed with the variety of items on the menu, from the blue-plate items to main-dish salads and a nice selection of sandwiches as well as a daily special (pasta Monday, fried chicken Tuesday, ribs Wednesday, Thanksgiving Thursday and trout Friday). Prices are very reasonable, and servings go beyond generous.

Dinner is served Thursday through Saturday and will feature the same items that are on the lunch menu, along with nightly dinner specials.

THE SERVICE

This is the place to go for a good lunch in a hurry. We arrived shortly after opening at 11 a.m. Lunch was placed in front of us within five minutes of ordering. The kitchen staff must be well prepared and ready to swing into action.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

THE SPACE

The menu says this is a chic and swanky place, and it is. By day, it's a large, partially underground room that gets plenty of natural light from windows on the east side of the room. At night, the place glows. The bar lights up, and the mood becomes electric.

THE VERDICT

I think Coltrane's on 9th makes good use of this space, offering a menu that appeals to all, as well as a nightspot for those looking to add a little spice to their weekend life. Owner Pete Waddington (Northshore Grille, Midtown Music Hall) and crew have done an excellent job of bringing another food/music venue to the Scenic City. All three of his restaurants have a certain charm. This one may be the best yet.

IF YOU GO

* Where: Coltrane's on 9th, 2 Union Square (Krystal Building).

* Phone: 468-7100.

* Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday (lunch), 4-10 p.m. Thursday-Saturday

* Price range: $4.95-$8.95.

* Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

* Alcohol: Full bar.