Staff Photo by John Rawlston
Smoked filet and Maine lobster, served with loaded mashed potatoes and haricot bert, is a menu option at the Northshore Grille on Frazier Avenue.

Northshore Grille has been a fixture on the North Shore since opening in the fall of 2002. Like any restaurant, it's menu has been changed from time to time to reflect shifts in the American palate. We stopped by recently to try the latest overhaul to the menu.

THE MENU

When I asked our server what the new menu offerings were, it probably would have been quicker to recite the old dishes that were kept.

The order (for two): Maine lobster and smoked bacon dilla; Pickett's Stuffed Trout; Smoked Filet and Maine Lobster.

The dilla, an open-face quesadilla, was wonderful. The thin, light and crispy crust is topped with a thin layer of pepper Jack cheese, shredded lobster, bits of bacon and chunks of avocado. A lemon wedge, when squirted over the dilla, really brings out the flavor. A little like a pizza, it was a perfect appetizer for two to share.

Restaurateur Pete Waddington had told me the stuffed trout was a huge seller, and one bite of my husband's order told me why. The trout, brought in locally from Pickett Trout Ranch in Dunlap, Tenn., had an excellent flavor and texture, though the crab stuffing was a little heavy on the cream cheese for me. Just a little with a bite of trout sufficed.

I've been having a lobster craving lately, so I was thrilled by the filet and lobster, an outstanding combination. I typically like some kind of sauce on my steak, but this didn't need any. The beef was smoked to perfection, seared and grilled to medium, then topped with chunks of sweet lobster. My husband said it was as good if not better than the beef once served at Town and Country. Quite a compliment coming from him.

The array of items on Northshore's new menu is impressive. Best bets also include the Maine lobster rolls, ribs, chicken Marsala, shrimp Florentine, pan-seared grouper with margarita shrimp salsa, meatball sub and mushroom-Swiss burger.

THE SERVICE

Our server, Blake, was attentive and personable. I liked his honest opinion about his favorite dishes, one of which he said were the tenderloin sliders. I don't think you could go wrong with those.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

THE SPACE

Northshore has one of the coolest spaces in town, literally and figuratively. The garage-style doors across the front allow fall breezes to flow through when opened. Closed, they afford a view of the busy happenings along Frazier Avenue. There's a large bar in front, with two separate dining areas, one to the side, another in back alongside the kitchen. A large screened porch along the rear of the building offers a view of Coolidge Park and surroundings.

THE VERDICT

Chef Erick Wood has done an excellent job of devising a menu in keeping with the restaurant's original seafood and smokehouse theme. There's something for every palate. It's upscale food with a casual attitude.

IF YOU GO

Where: Northshore Grille, 16 Frazier Ave.

Phone: 757-2000.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday (bar open late night).

Price range: $6.95-$8.95 (lunch); $4.95-$21.95 (dinner); $5.95-$10.95 (Sunday brunch).

Payment: Cash and major credit cards.

Alcohol: Full bar.

Smoking: In bar area.