Ellington

The drive up Lookout Mountain just got a little more flavorful with the opening of Cafe on the Corner. Not only is it a charming little restaurant, it also has an exciting new menu that shows the creativity of owner Ruth Oehmig and her son, executive chef Sven Lindroth.

Lindroth has an advanced degree, summa cum laude, from Johnson & Wales University in Charleston, S.C. Before gaining that degree, he worked in restaurants from Chicago to New Orleans and Jamaica.

Oehmig, too, has a strong background in the culinary field, having had a catering business in Chicago. Both mother and son also have strong business backgrounds, what it takes for a successful restaurant venture.

THE MENU

Fried green tomatoes are nothing out of the ordinary anymore. Creative chefs have raised the bar on what were once considered a strictly Southern delicacy. Lindroth's talent comes through on every menu item, but the fried green tomatoes may be one of his crowning achievements.

Thin slices of green tomato are coated with panko bread crumbs and lightly fried. Then the surprise comes: They are set atop a bed of basil aioli and topped with tangy sweet pepper jelly embedded with small strips of red and green peppers. It's quite a culinary marvel for something so ordinary.

The menu is not overwhelming as far as the number of offerings, but when you read the description of the dishes, you realize the depth of knowledge this young chef has gained from the different cities in which he's worked. Lindroth blends all of these culinary styles in the dishes he presents.

The shrimp and grits brought together coastal trends, such as shrimp with the tails intact, and andouille sausage, a Bayou State favorite. This dish is remarkable in flavor, color and texture. It's a must for anyone who can't get enough shrimp and grits.

All meals begin with a small plate of breads and Lindroth's signature recipe for pimento cheese. It's just a small container, but it's enough to spread on the breads and, really, enough for an appetizer on its own.

Other menu items include a good choice of sandwiches, including a fried green tomato BLT and turkey avocado club. Burgers and main-dish salads, which include Southern Cobb and roasted beet salad, offer more tempting choices. And there's always a good selection of entrees: Cafe Meatloaf, Parmesan-Crusted Pork Loin, seared scallops and, for vegetarians, asparagus pasta.

THE SERVICE

I was seated promptly. After I'd decided on my appetizer and entree, dinner continued with no problem. My server was terrific and accurate in his delivery of every aspect of the meal.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

The Space

I love the combination of wood trim, exposed brick, hardwood floors and stone fireplace. It's a comfortable look dressed up just a bit with white linen tablecloths. The understated elegance is perfect for the restaurant's mountain setting.

THE VERDICT

I'm pleased that Lookout Mountain has a really good restaurant serving lunch and dinner. Locals will love stopping by this place. And it's worth the trip up the mountain for those of us who live elsewhere.