If you’re looking for comfort food, look no further than The Blue Plate. Since opening two years ago, the diner has become known for some of the best homestyle cooking in town. Don’t go looking for butter beans and creamed corn, though. This restaurant puts an upscale twist on momma’s cooking. With a new chef, Joseph Black, in the kitchen, I figured it was time to give it another look.

THE MENU

Just like any good diner, breakfast is served all day, every day. Although the Blue Plate Omelet is hard to resist, I wanted to try something new to put Black’s culinary skills to the test. So I went with his fried chicken, and I’m happy I did.

Lunch began with the best clam chowder I’ve ever had. Chock-full of clams and a few large pieces of red potato, the thick broth was spiked with a hint of sherry, making the flavor outstanding. This was the soup of the day, but I think it should be a fixture on the menu for all to enjoy any time.

The fried chicken, with its crispy buttermilk-battered crust, was a boneless filet topped with a small amount of gravy, not swimming in it. It was perfect and tender as it could be.

It came with two sides, so I picked the greens and a small bowl of fresh fruit. Delicious on both counts. The fruit was in season and fresh, not out of a can.

That’s the mission of Blue Plate, to serve fresh foods, and, whenever possible, from local farms. Everything is made from scratch, even the potato chips.

Best bets: Fried chicken, fish tacos, fried green tomatoes, Blue Chips (chips loaded with Maytag blue cheese), baked meatloaf, turkey and dressing, cowboy steak (12-ounce bone-in rib-eye).

Vegetarian choices: Veggie burger, vegetarian chili, Blue Plate Omelet, White Omelet, French toast.

THE SERVICE

It was a pleasant day, so we opted to dine al fresco to avoid waiting in line for an inside table. The patio, with a dozen or so tables, overlooks Chattanooga Green, Ross’s Landing and the river beyond, so it made a beautiful backdrop for our meal. Though we were more out of sight than those dining inside, the servers staffing the exterior tables did a nice job of getting food out of the kitchen and onto our table in a timely fashion.

Room for improvement: Nothing to report.

THE SPACE

Modern design meets Mother Nature here. Glass tiles surround the bar area; stainless steel marks much of the inside, adding shine to an already gleaming interior. Huge windows encompass the front of Blue Plate, looking out over the outdoor tables and the scenic river views. It’s a dynamic look that takes ho-hum out of traditional diner decor. There’s nothing conventional about this place.

THE VERDICT

When veteran restaurateur Rob Gentry opened Blue Plate, he had a wealth of experience behind him, having been an owner of Big River Grille when it opened in 1993. He told me when he opened his new restaurant in 2006 that he wanted it to be the first of what may become a chain of Blue Plates. But there’s no rush. For now, he’s working to get everything fine-tuned. And that takes time, as any experienced restaurant owner knows. Judging by my plate, the future looks solid.

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