Kanpai of Tokyo has had an amazing run in Chattanooga — 32 years and still going strong.

Many of you may remember that the original location of this Japanese steakhouse was at the Four Squares complex on Mountain Creek Road. It’s now located in the busy Hamilton Place area.

On a recent evening, Kanpai was drawing in a steady stream of customers minutes after its 5:30 p.m. opening.

THE MENU

One thing I like about Kanpai is its selection of entrees. There’s something for everyone: beef, chicken, seafood and vegetarian plates.

I could stick with the vegetables and be very happy. There’s something about the accompanying sauces that really make the meal. You’ll find four: a creamy mayonnaise/soy mixture, a hot sauce, a gingery soy sauce and a mustard-based sauce.

Your meal starts with the typical clear chicken soup spiked with fried onions and green onions, followed by a salad with a mustardy dressing. I can’t get enough of this delicious dressing. It’s sold by the bottle, so customers can buy it to take home.

Our cook was very good. Though not Japanese, he had mastered the traditional culinary acrobatics that accompany the actual cooking of the meal. He showed his wizardry chopping vegetables, frying rice and finally cooking the meats, getting all orders correct as he went along.

My hibachi chicken, as expected, was perfect. My dad’s shrimp and scallops were also as good as they come, though I thought the shrimp would be slightly larger. Though there were just three scallops, they were huge and, once chopped, made for quite a meal.

The menu never seems to change at Kanpai, but that’s OK. For many people, this is a special-occasion place, not a restaurant you frequent on a daily basis. So a never-changing menu isn’t a bad thing.

THE SERVICE

You have two servers here. The first takes your order and brings your drink, soup and salad. Then it’s up to the chef at your table.

You know the drill. While the food cooks on the hibachi grill, the chef entertains you with tricks, like cracking an egg in midair, and performs his knife act like a Samurai warrior.

If there’s a big crowd, expect a wait for the preliminary parts of the meal. But once the meat and vegetables start cooking, they’re on your plate as soon as they finish cooking. Because your plate is in front of you at the time, you eat with no wait to have it brought from the kitchen.

THE SPACE

For parties or family gatherings, this restaurant is the place to be. It’s action-packed and fun.

Like any Japanese hibachi-style restaurant, you sit at a large table with other patrons, often with strangers if your party is small. However, the cozy seating and chef’s theatrics are great conversation starters.

Still, if you want a table to yourself, bring a party large enough to fill an entire table. Make sure you have reservations or you may face a wait, unless you get there at opening time.

I enjoy looking at all the spectacular Japanese decor. You walk into another world when you enter the massive front doors of Kanpai.

THE VERDICT

There are just some restaurants that you can count on for consistent food and service. Kanpai is one. That’s what’s made it a Chattanooga favorite for more than three decades.

E-mail Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com