Sugar's Ribs opened on the side of Missionary Ridge about a year and a half ago. Now a second location is tickling St. Elmo, sending smoke signals across the foot of Lookout Mountain.

THE MENU

The restaurant name has become synonymous with barbecue. It's a favorite of many, and now it's the only barbecue restaurant in St. Elmo.

I met a couple of friends for a meal there recently, and it was packed. There wasn't a line waiting -- it wasn't that full -- but all inside tables were taken, plus a few on the outside deck. That's a good sign, wouldn't you say?

The order: Ribs, South of Seoul Chicken Slaw, smoked chicken.

Sugar's offers a couple of slaws, but this new one sounded so intriguing, I had to give it a try. Chicken in coleslaw? Never heard of that before.

More surprises came with this big bowlful of slaw, comparable to a main-dish salad. Mixed in with a mass of roughly chopped cabbage and chicken were croutons and peas tossed in an excellent Asian dressing.

I could have done without the cilantro but managed to pick most of it out. I really wish restaurants would offer cilantro as an option. Not everyone is wild about it.

Altogether, though, this salad was very different and refreshing. I'll get it again.

Sugar's chicken is some of the best in town. No surprise. Owner Lawton Haygood's a master when it comes to smoking meats. Beef lovers may want to try the brisket, which is as tender as it comes.

I like Sugar's new menu. Much of the original remains, but with the addition of things like the chicken slaw and grilled okra, I think it's a better mix.

THE SERVICE

Orders are placed at the counter, and if you get there when the place is full, there will be a wait, which was our case. The wait was no longer than five minutes, but when you're hungry and you watch all this really good food going past you, that's a long time.

Sugar's on the side of the ridge has table service. Don't know why this one doesn't. However, once you've placed your order, it's delivered to the table.

We had a delightful young man helping us. It's been a while since I've witnessed such polite and helpful service.

THE SPACE

Located in a building that has been home to a number of eateries, Sugar's appears to have settled in nicely. Haygood and his wife, Karen, also own Canyon Grill on Lookout Mountain and Boathouse Raw Bar and Rotisserie on Riverside Drive, so they know how to design a restaurant for comfort as well as function.

One problem, though. The volume on the jukebox was too loud. A simple request to lower it was handled immediately, and the situation was remedied.

THE VERDICT

I wasn't immediately sold on Sugar's last year. But now I am. And I like the convenience of the St. Elmo location. This makes the Haygoods' fourth restaurant in the area. What a bonus these two are to the foodies in the Scenic City.

Owl Towne Writers Group at MUDD PUDDLE CAFE
Gospel Fellowship, East Ridge at SHONEY'S
Gospel, Ringgold at HARDEE'S, RINGGOLD